Thanksgiving Update: A Tribute in Pictures


Thanksgiving dinner for nine guests was a great success!

As promised, here are some of the pictures from the evening. As we get closer to the next big calendar meals —Christmas Eve Dinner, Christmas Day Lunch, and New Year’s Nibblies — I’ll be posting recipes from Thanksgiving that can be easily recycled for the Christmas menu.

Thank you dear friends for the great booze, great (bacon) chocolates, and great company!

And yes, I do love Thanksgiving so much that I own napkins embroidered with turkeys.

Thanksgiving 2010 Menu

Thanksgiving is my favorite holiday. It’s my gastronomic Superbowl. Completely secular, it is a holiday all about good food, in Pantagruel-esque quantities, with good drink and good friends.

Though it falls on a Thursday, Thanksgiving weekend really begins on Wednesday, which is when every weekend should start!

For years now I have been happily hosting dinner for 8+ in tiny apartments all over. There is nothing I love more that warmly welcoming stretchy-panted, hungry friends and feeding them till they pass out in tryptophan comas on the floor.

Over the years, I’ve developed a Thanksgiving game-plan that has served me well. A week before, I start doing a general clean-up and throw-out of things that have been lying around for the past year. Like spring-cleaning, but in the fall. The menu gets put together, the fridge gets emptied of furry pickles, food orders and deliveries get coordinated. The days get closer, the menu gets formalized, and the anxiously anticipated prep work begins…

Thanksgiving Menu, New York City 2010

Champagne Cocktails

Roasted Turkey with Rosemary Gravy
Fresh Sage and Onion Stuffing
Cranberry Sauce with Grand Marnier and Candied Orange Peel
Mashed Potatoes with Aged White Cheddar Cheese and Sage
Three-Cheese Mac & Cheese
Kale Caesar Salad
Green Beans with Caramelized Shallots
Maple Syrup Sweet Potatoes topped with Tiny Marshmallows
Pumpkin Cheesecake with Brown-Butter Pears and Gingersnap Crust

Smoked Ribs


Like spies, every cook has a special touch that they add to each recipe, the divulgence of which might require them to kill you.

Not even blood seems to carry any guarantee of full, honest disclosure — a lesson I learned one Thanksgiving after trying to reproduce my mom’s famous apple cake. I remember faithfully transcribing the recipe over the phone (“3 and 1/2 cups of vegetable oil? Really, Mom? 3 and a 1/2 CUPS?”), and then watching horrified as my cake separated into one layer of oily apple slurry, and another of just oil.

Later, recounting my disaster to my mother, she interjected by saying, “3 and 1/2 cups? That’s crazy! You were supposed to only put in 3 and 1/2 tablespoons!”

Did I mishear my mother the first time? I don’t think so. Do I think she did it on purpose? Yes, I do.

A recent boomerang trip to Texas for my boyfriend’s niece’s baptism yielded a great opportunity for some excellent home-cooked, home-smoked grub. His brother-in-law loaded up the truck with the smoker, and the smoker with mesquite and several pounds of pork and beef ribs.

After four and a half hours of smoking, they emerged toothsome and succulent. The ribs were full of meaty chew and savory smoke. Absolutely delicious.

When asked what the recipe was, he and his wife threw out a nonchalant, “Oh, a little bit of this, and a little bit of that.” From the bits of scant information, it seems like a marinade and a rub was involved. Apple cider vinegar, brown sugar, thyme.

Any more information than that, and they would have to kill you.

Ingredients:

A mix of pork and beef ribs

Special secret marinade

Special secret rub

Special Equipment:

One smoker

Mesquite

One boyfriend’s brother-in-law

One boyfriend’s sister

How to prepare:

1. Get a round-trip ticket to Texas.

2. Persuade boyfriend’s family to smoke some meat.

3. Put on stretchy pants.

4. Pass out in a happy food coma.

The Elvis


When friends decided to recreate a State Fair Extravaganza in their Brooklyn backyard, we had to go.

Duck ponds, ring tosses, freak shooting, and prize-winning festivities abounded. In the great tradition of all state fairs, there was also a cooking competition. Was I in it to win it? Of course!

This weekend’s event was actually a fry-off instead of a cook-off — even better! Two prizes were given: one for the “Most Cardiac-Arresting,” and the second for the “Most Delicious.”

My boyfriend and I brought two contenders, one of which was just bought off the shelf and the other that we “cooked.” My contribution was The Elvis, PBJ and bananas on Wonder Bread. My boyfriend’s was Hostess GloBalls, a crème-filled chocolate cake covered in marshmallow fluff rolled in coconut shavings and FD&C Green No° 3 — an edible, glow-in-the-dark, seasonal variation of the traditional Hostess SnoBall.

Other things fried that night? Bacon-wrapped pineapple slices rolled in coconut and Cocoa Krispies. Shu Mai. Ravioli. Pizza. Pickles. Peppers. Sara Lee Pound Cake. Cheesecake. Meatballs. French toast. Frozen White Castle sliders. Fresh White Castle sliders with pickles. Bananas. Strawberries. Defrosted Banquet Mac ‘n’ cheese. Donuts. French Fries.

I don’t know how the judge, a former vegetarian thus possessing an unsullied palate, made it through the endless rounds of fried food. It was pretty awe-inspiring.

The Elvis valiantly went forth and clogged some arteries. It probably would have clogged more had I added bacon since the real Elvis apparently liked his daily fried PBJ and banana with some pork product for added fat, salt, and crunch. This information is somewhat anecdotal; it is unclear if the King had the bacon in the sandwich, or simply liked it fried in bacon fat.

In the fryer, the GloBalls’ marshmallow covering became a crispy and weirdly tooth-shattering. The Globalls’ glow-in-the-darkiness mellowed to a grass green. Out of the fryer, they turned out to be both disturbingly toxic (dissolving the styrofoam plates underneath them) and unbelievably delicious. They left the palate tingling with an amazingly not unpleasant chemical zing.

Though the Elvis was a strong contender, I think you already know what won.

Yes, Ladies and Gentlemen, the GloBalls.

Frightening but true.

Pea Frittata with Mint and Yogurt

Food always photographs wonderfully in sunlight.

In this case, it is hazy, lazy, beach weekend sunlight filtering through bungalow blinds. Weekends away with friends is a great opportunity to bust out those brunch recipes that always sound so appealing, but are way too much food for just two. This is one of those quick and easy dishes that takes little effort, but tastes much more complex than its few parts.

This is also another recipe pulled from memory, the original being from famed Argentinian chef Francis Mallmann. Several years ago, I had the pleasure of lunching at his restaurant, 1884, just outside of Mendoza and smack-dab in the middle of sun-dappled wine country. I remember having a lip-smackingly good bottle of Escorihuela Viognier that was so yummy I had to run to the tasting room and buy a bottle to take home. Like all of Argentina, the vineyard was perfumed with the intoxicating smell of wood-smoke and grilled steak.

Mallmann recommends that this frittata (or as he prefers tortilla) be baked in a wood-fired oven too. Alas, our cute little rental lacked that Argentinian mainstay, so we made do with a gas stove and its broiler.

Ingredients:

2 tablespoons unsalted butter or olive oil

1/2 pound frozen baby peas (or fresh if you are so lucky to find fat peas in pods to shell)

3/4 cup plain Greek-style yogurt, plus an extra cup to serve on the side if you wish

12 large eggs

1/2 cup coarsely chopped fresh mint

1 teaspoon kosher salt

1/4 teaspoon freshly ground pepper

How to prepare:

1. Preheat the broiler. In a large, ovenproof, nonstick skillet or shallow pan, melt the butter or heat the olive oil over medium heat. Add the peas and cook over moderate heat until warm.

2. Meanwhile, in a large bowl, beat 3/4 cup of the yogurt with the eggs, mint, salt and pepper until smooth. Pour the eggs over the peas and turn up the heat. Cook over moderately high heat until the bottom and the edges start to set, about 3-4 minutes. Transfer the pan to the oven and broil 6 inches from the heat, until the top of the frittata is set and lightly golden in spots. Slide the frittata onto a plate (or just serve it from the pan as I did) cut into wedges with the remaining 1 cup of yogurt on the side.

Penne with Beef and Arugula


Is there anything better than a weekend at the beach? We were the lucky-ducky guests of friends who had rented a house that came with an extra bungalow to share. Steps from the water, the house was cute and had a roomy and well-appointed kitchen — perfect for cooking for friends.

Each night, we were invited to share in the feast prepared by our lovely hosts. The wife is not only an amazing cook, but a superwoman who runs her own business and able to balance three young kids and two housefuls of guests with a great humor and style. Her tuna tartare was a dream: fresh tuna, avocado, sesame oil, wasabi powder, soy, and a lot of love. Juicy and thick hamburgers on a charcoal grill for lunch the next day. Fresh shrimp and clams steamed in beer with home-made cocktail sauce and melted compound butter for dinner. How could we not be inspired?

This recipe is actually from Giada DeLaurentis, but since I had to make it from memory, the dish that I produced varied quite a bit. I give you the actual recipe below, followed by my variation at the end.

Ingredients:

1 (1-pound) New York strip steak

1 teaspoon herbs de Provence

1 garlic clove, minced

3/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil, plus 3 tablespoons

1 pound penne pasta

1/4 cup balsamic vinegar

2 tablespoons Dijon mustard

1/2 teaspoon salt, plus more for steak and pasta water

1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper, plus more for steak

1/4 cup chopped fresh basil leaves

1/4 cup chopped fresh parsley leaves

2 cups chopped arugula

How to prepare:

1. Season the steak with salt and freshly ground black pepper, herbs de Provence, and minced garlic. In a skillet, heat 3 tablespoons olive oil over medium heat. Sear the steak for a 7 minutes per side. Remove the meat from the pan and let it rest for 5 minutes. Thinly slice the steak. Set aside.

2. Meanwhile, bring a large pot of salted water to a boil over high heat. Add the pasta and cook until tender but still firm to the bite, stirring occasionally, about 8 to 10 minutes. Drain pasta, reserving 1/4 cup of pasta water.

3. In a small bowl, whisk together the balsamic vinegar, Dijon mustard, 1/2 teaspoon salt, 1/2 teaspoon pepper, fresh herbs, and 3/4 cup olive oil. In a large bowl toss the pasta with half of the salad dressing and the reserved pasta water. Add the arugula and steak, more dressing, and season with salt and freshly ground black pepper, as needed. Toss, pack for the picnic, or serve.

My beach weekend variation:

2 pounds boneless chuck eye steak

2 teaspoons herbs de Provence

2 garlic clove, minced

3/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil, plus 3 tablespoons

1 pound penne pasta

6 ounces crumbled feta cheese

1/2 teaspoon salt, plus more for steak

1/2 teaspoon ground black pepper, plus more for steak

3 tablespoons Dijon mustard

Juice from 1 lemon

1 small red onion, sliced thinly

5 ounces baby arugula

1. Combine the salt, ground black pepper, herbs de Provence, and minced garlic with 3 tablespoons of olive oil. Smear the mixture on both sides of the steak. Broil the steak for a few minutes per side until it is on the rarer side of medium. Remove the meat from the broiler pan and let it rest for 5 minutes. Thinly slice the steak. Set aside.

2. Meanwhile, bring a large pot of salted water to a boil over high heat. Add the pasta and cook until tender but still firm to the bite, stirring occasionally, about 8 to 10 minutes. Drain pasta, reserving 1/4 cup of pasta water.

3. In a small bowl, whisk together the meat juices from the pan, Dijon mustard, 1/2 teaspoon salt, 1/2 teaspoon pepper, lemon juice, and 3/4 cup olive oil. In a large bowl toss the pasta with half of the salad dressing and the reserved pasta water. Add the arugula, red onions, feta, steak, more dressing, and season with salt and freshly ground black pepper, as needed. Toss, pack for the picnic, or serve.

Penne with Pepper Sauce and Hot Italian Sausage


Tonight we are very lucky indeed: kind friends have shared a tub of homemade pepper sauce. It’s lovely, creamy, unctuous, with fresh parsley and a spicy kick. They made it from some beautiful bell peppers that they bought in the Hudson River Valley. Absolutely delicious. It was such a treat.

To this, we can only add the very best that we have. I took some of the hot Italian beef sausage from our CSA and roasted it in a 375° oven for about 20 minutes. Maybe it was less, but I lost track of time licking the remainder of the sauce left on the sides of the container.

After letting the sausage rest for a few minutes, we sliced it at an angle and tossed everything together.

Served with a side of local rainbow chard sautéed in minced garlic and olive oil. Does food get any better than this?